Heda Ryokan
I’m having trouble finding the words that aptly express my time in this place. I was there for less than 24 hours. Although what I felt within one hour of arriving didn’t leave me until I stepped back off the train in Mushima.
5 hours of travel time to get there. The JR ticket girl did her best to explain to me how to get there and then asked me “why” I was going to this obscure little town. I was doubting my decision when I finally made it to the bus and we started this windy 50 minute trip through the mountains. It wasn’t until we reached the peak and all of a sudden mount fuji’s peak was staring me in the face I decided the bus ride was worth it. As we started our descent into the port of Heda I got my first glance at it’s tiny cove hugged by small weathered buildings and small fishing vessels speckling the seafoam green ( i never understood the true meaning of the name for this color until now) water. My car sent from the Ryokan was waiting for me and the driver asked simply “Sarah-san?” And motioned to the car with a head nod and turn.
The very short drive to the other side of the port gave me the full view of this little town. As we drove past the marina I saw the perfectly framed view of the peak and I knew I would come back for this photo.
I had arrived in time for sunset and my favorite time of day. Dinner was scheduled for 6pm and so I had two hours to explore and enjoy the perfect fall weather. I walked along the beach through the marina and was greeted by a few locals enjoying the lazy Sunday afternoon. A small boat full of men pulls in and they carry their day’s catch ashore. An old woman hanging her peeled persimmons to dry on the same line share by her laundry. Two older woman stopped talking mid sentence to watch me pass and I greeted them with a “Kernichiwa” and a smile and they giggled and replied in kind. I sat on the sea wall taking it all in as couples walked hand in hand past me to the lighthouse. I was giddy and couldn’t wipe the smile off of my face. “Pinch me” and photo sent to my gfs back home.
Complimentary whiskey and ocean view in the lobby with the most comfortable chairs I’ve ever sat in. I look around and almost everyone (maybe 20 people total) is i the summer kimono that I saw in my closet. I go to the bus boy who speaks great english and ask him if I’m supposed to wear it. “It is as you like” he says and I press him and ask him what is normal. “yes, it is normal to wear it” and I happily bounce back to my room to get dressed. I feel a little silly when i see myself in my mirror but I’m loving it too. I can’t help laugh at myself with each new encounter with a custom I’m unsure how to maneuver through and I knew dinner would be so as well. I was grateful for the private cubicles that each party was allotted because I’m sure watching me try to eat would have been pure comedy. I was laughing my whole way through it anyhow and despite almost everything being outside my comfort zone I ate pretty much everything of the 12 courses that were served. (Except the things with eyes or mouths, they got quietly set aside).
After dinner I retired to the lobby for another hour and then decided to try the onsen out. It was inevitable and as much as I dislike the idea of being naked with a group I didn’t want to miss out on a cultural experience. I got to the ladies room and found it empty. I wasn’t expecting this and after a few minutes of trying to figure the place out and the lack of signage I could understand I picked up the phone for the lobby asking if the onsen was even open.. Thinking i had come after hours. I had expecting a room full of woman and when i found it empty i was relieved for the sake of privacy.. But then i realized i didn’t know what to do based on expecting to watch and copy others. The lobby sent a woman from the front desk to my embarrassed rescue as we determined to how and what do in the onsen. Again i laughed to myself at how they must be amused at this lost american.
I wake up to the sound of heavy rain out my window and my view confirms it. I dress and go back to the lobby for wifi and those cozy chairs to have a cup of coffee with my view. There is something so comforting about this moment. I really can’t find the words. It was peaceful. A sweet text from my dear momma d pushed me over the edge and happy tears fell down my cheeks.
My 7 course traditional breakfast is served in the same fashion as dinner was and while it was fun to sample all these things I found it too salty for a breakfast. I massacred the fried fish trying to debone it and then realized there was a simple trick to slipping the meat off. ::sigh::
I packed, said good by to my yakata and hopped the bus+train back to Yokusuka. It was rainy and cloudy so there were no views of the Fuji peak today. I again am grateful I had the fore thought to arrive early in the day before so I had that view during the daylight. More than grateful, it would have changed everything.
